After a week in and out of the XP sick bay, I was getting totally stir crazy and wanted desperately to move on even though I was not fully recovered. I am a really stubborn person, and I convinced Sam (who did not get as sick as I did and was mostly recovered) that I was ready for more adventures. He was pretty skeptical about my current state of health, but after eight years together, he knows it is easier to just let me suffer then to try to change my mind. That is how I ended up hiking through the steamy jungle with a fever popping anti vomminting pills like candy. I knew I could not complain because I had asked for this, so I stoically hiked liked the walking dead.
Even though I felt like death, I was happy to be on the road again, and if there is any place in the world that can lift your spirits, it is the stunning landscape of waterfalls and tropical jungles in southern Chiapas. This area is referred to as the Ruta Lacandona, and it hugs the border of Guatemala with rivers and lakes forming a natural border between the two countries. This area is probably the most beautiful area we have seen in Mexico (it actually looks a lot like parts of the state San Luis Potosi that we loved) and all the travelers we had met that visited here were just blown away by it.
El Chiflon
This place reminded us of Tomosopo in San Luis Potosi.
We started the Ruta Lacandona at the impressive waterfalls of El Chiflon. These are a series of waterfalls that you hike to that just get more and more impressive as you gain altitude. We camped here for 50 pesos ($4 dollars) and even during the day, there were not many people here, at night it was yours alone. I have seen a lot of waterfalls in my life, this one was really impressive.
The massive Velo de Novia. I am the little green dot walking down the stairs soaked from the powerful spray.
One of the lower falls. All the pictures I am killing bugs on myself. The one crappy part of the jungle.
Sam took this picture of me to show me how silly I was to be hiking while ill. I had to stop every hundred feet and sit down, I was so weak. Makes me realize how wonderful it is to feel healthy and rested almost every day.
I loved the lighting in this picture.
The Rio San Vincente that flowed from the waterfall was that crazy aqua blue we had seen in other parts of Mexico as well and was all over Chiapas.
Lagos de Montebello
From El Chiflon we drove to the Lagunas Montebello on a recommendation from our overlander friends Toby and Chloe who had just stayed here. Out of all the people we have met on the road, their traveling style is probably the most similar to ours, so when they recommend something we listen because we know we will love it. And we did. WOW. We camped at Laguna Tziscao right on the lake (thanks Toby!) and spent days exploring the over 50 lakes in this area, swimming in the crystal clear water, boating on a bolsa raft to Guatemala and back again and getting lost along dirt roads in rural Chiapas. It was so beautiful and at a high enough altitude that the weather was cooler than other parts of the Lacandona circuit. We were so glad we saw this, the combinations of pine forest, colorful lakes and tropical jungle was just breathtaking.
Our camp spot at Lake Tziscao during a sunny day.
Same camp spot when it was cold and foggy. I liked it both ways. The mountains behind us are Guatemala. We had a crazy strong thunder and lighting storm this night. It was a little scary how close the lighting got.
This was one of our most peaceful campsites. Really relaxing place to get healthy and strong again.
Long walks around the campsite through tropical jungle. Interesting juxtaposition to the pine trees.
Sam swimming in the lake near our campsite.
We rented a bolsa raft and rowed to Guatemala and back again. The lake spanned international waters.
There had been such heavy rains this year that the lake was unusually high. This is me on a nature path that was now underwater.
Last pic of one of our favorite camp spots. We love our XP.
We visited about 10 lakes total. This was Agua Tinta, a deep blue.
And then there were the green lakes. This is Esmeralda
Another different colored lake in the group of Lagunas de Colores.
And our hands down favorite, La Canada. This was a stunning lake.
The sun was fickle on the day we visited, so the amazing color was not totally captured in the picture. This was a stunning place.
Last one of La Canada. We got really lost driving here. We passed the lake and drove for over an hour on dirt roads in the mountains of Chiapas. It was a beautiful drive, no regrets.
The road leaving the lakes was one of the prettiest drives we did in Mexico so far. Green mountains, aqua blue rivers, cows in pastures…and it felt really safe.