One night in December sitting around a camp fire in Northern Patagonia, our Swiss friend Simone told us about the famous Valdes killer whales. She explained that on the Valdes Peninsula orcas will swim up on the beach and strand themselves temporarily in order to catch baby sea lions. She told us it is the only place in the world where this happens and that to see it we would have to time our visits with the high tide schedule. We were totally intrigued and decided we had to try to see an orca eat a seal on a beach! So crazy!!!
We left the comfy tea houses of Gaimen and stocked up with a weeks worth of supplies for our time on the Peninsula. We were told by some friends that there was some great free camp spots on the Peninsula and we thought it would be an easy base camp for visiting the orcas. What we did not realize at the time was that to see the orcas, elephant seals, penguins and sea lions we would have a 100 mile round trip drive everyday on a gravel road because there is no camping allowed near the wildlife on the peninsula. 100 frikin miles!!!!!
The day we arrived in the park our Swiss friends who had arrived the day before us sent us a text message that they saw a stranding at Punta Norte!!!! It was the first one in over 30 days and they saw it on their first attempt (and we missed it…….). I was super happy that Simone got to see the stranding since she had been talking about it for months, the stars aligned for her. Determined to see a stranding the next day we set up camp and made our own attack plan of how to see the peninsula.
Day 1
I woke up on our first day to go drink my coffee on the beach. As I was looking at the waves a penguin swam out and walked up next to me. So cool!
Just when I think the Atlantic reminds me of the ocean back in California a penguin will remind me I am a long long way from home.
Our camp spot. In the morning the waves started coming up and we had to move out. FAST.
Driving around the peninsula there are lots of places to stop and view wildlife. These are elephant seal I think. You can see how far the peninsula stretches.
There were a lot of penguins along the coast.
I loved this little red breasted bird.
Our first day we did not see any orcas, but we sure did see a bunch of marine life.
No orcas but this little guy was hanging out around our truck all day. I think he might have been fed by a few tourists.
Day 2
We headed back to our camp on a ledge near the ocean. The stars at night were amazing.
More driving around the epic coast line. It was so stunning.
No orcas day 2 but this giant elephant seal was good entertainment. I would not want to mess with that beastie on the beach.
Doing one of the many hikes along the coast.
This is the beach at Punta Norte where the orcas do the stranding. We spent so many hours here waiting for an attack.
You can see why the orcas push themselves onto the beach, there is easy pickings there.
Some of the lovely wetlands full of bird life on the north end of the peninsula.
So after 100 miles of crappy dirt road on day two with no orca sighting we were a bit disappointed. Our Swiss friends saw it the first day and we were spending hours (two hours before and after high tide) baking in the hot sun, watching sea lions for hours. It was a bit disheartening. However, fate intervened for us and crossed our paths with some of the most amazing people we met during our travels. John and Betti are these amazing, adventurous people who just overflow with positive energy and life. As they walked by our camp, Betti said hello and then told us we should drive around the coast and join them at their epic camp spot for a drink, little did we know that we would hit it off and end up spending almost a week camping with them and becoming fast friends.
I think I have said it a million times, but the people we have met on this adventure have been the best part of it. Sharing these experiences with like minded people is really what it is all about, and as I look back even now, all my favorite memories are of the nights spent with friends drinking wine under the stars and talking about life, or exploring new places together.
This is Hero and Burt (John and Betti’s truck). The first few days we parked far enough to give each other a bit of privacy, but as the wind began to rise, we circled the wagons.
Day 3
So on day 3 we made yet another attempt to see the orcas and drove another 100 miles roundtrip to Punta Norte. This time we convinced John and Betti to join us. The conditions this day were really good, it was sunny and there was no wind which we learned was what the orcas were looking for on the days they attempted standings.
Our new camp spot was amazing! This was my view as I drank coffee watching the fish swim below me.
The sea around us was pulsing with life, no wonder there is so much marine animals around.
I got to watch these little guys hunt fish for about an hour. Penguins are so fast in the water!
The XP and me. What a great camp spot.
We arrived at Punta Norte and hoped to see orcas. I loved this penguin in the middle of all the sea lions. I think he was a bit confused.
The baby sea lions would all hang out in what Sam called “the nursery”.
And then they would go swimming!
As we were watching the sea lion babies swim, we suddenly saw the fins of a pod of orcas!!!!!! It was so exciting. They began swimming up and down the coast, scoping out the baby seals. We watched them for about thirty minutes with baited breath.
Look how close they get to the shore!!!!! Nuts.
Baby and the parents. The parents teach the babies how to hunt in these channels and also teach them how to do the standings.
The pod kept moving back and forth, but they never came up on the beach.
The ranger told us that it was reported that they caught some food in the water, so they did not need to come up on the beach, we were bummed they did not do a stranding, but felt really happy to see them so close with John and Betti.
This is what the viewing area looks like next to the beach. We were able to get up really close and watch the animal show.
Sam spotted this super cool bird while we were at Punta Norte.
And another little armadillo.
And we saw this colorful lizard.
And elephant seals fighting.
Days 4-6
When we got back to our camp spot I sent a text message to our biker friends Michelle and Brian telling them that there was only one more high tide (the following day) and then high tide would be at dark, so there was only one more day for them to rush to Valdes to see the orcas or they would have to wait another week or so. We also told them how amazing the weather was and how there was zero wind (Note to self, if you celebrate no wind, it will appear out of nowhere and show you who is boss). The two of them literally hauled ass over 375 miles on motorbikes in a day and we made it out to try and see the orcas one last time. The orcas did not show, but we had a blast driving Michelle and Brian in the back of the truck and spending another day at Punta Norte with Betti, John, Michelle and Brian.
Brian following us to our secret camp spot. We waited a little too long and it got very dark.
But before it got dark, this sky happened!!!!
Of course when Michelle and Brian arrive the Patagonia wind rose up from the ashes making us have to try and make a wind block with our rigs for their tent.
This is Betti and I chasing my XP hat as the crazy wind tried to blow it into the ocean. (Picture from John).
The bikers and the big rigs. Even with all the wind, we stayed and hung out for three more days. (picture from Brian).
Sometimes I want to feel badass, so I just sit on Brian’s bike for a few minutes. Now if I could just stop laughing I might look cool. (Picture from Brian).
We were facing west, so we got to see the sun sort of set over the ocean. We had a great week with our awesome friends!
Oh, and if you want to see what the orca attacks look like, below is a YouTube video someone took at Punta Norte. WARNING: BABY SEA LIONS GET EATEN, SO DON’T WATCH IF THAT WILL UPSET YOU.